The Dunk Low "Panda" is a plain white and black colourway of a 1985 college basketball shoe, and for three years it was the hardest sneaker in the world to buy at retail.
What it actually is
The Dunk launched in 1985 for college teams, sharing much of its build with the Air Jordan 1 and the Terminator. It has no air unit — just a flat, firm midsole. That is worth knowing before you buy: it is a stiffer, flatter shoe than an Air Force 1.
Skateboarding kept the Dunk alive through the 2000s. The Panda arrived in 2021 and sold in numbers Nike has rarely matched.
Why it took off
Two reasons, neither romantic. It goes with everything, because white and black goes with everything. And it stayed hard to get long enough to become the thing people wanted precisely because they could not have it.
How it fits
Close to true to size, and noticeably narrower than an Air Force 1. If you are between sizes, size up rather than down — the Dunk has less give across the forefoot. Our conversion chart will get you to the right EU number from a measurement.
Dunk or Air Force 1?
- Dunk — flatter, firmer, narrower, more of a shape. Better with slim trousers.
- Air Force 1 — softer underfoot thanks to the air unit, chunkier, more forgiving on a wide foot. See the Air Force 1, explained.
Buying one used
Because it sold out repeatedly, the Panda is heavily counterfeited. Check the stitching along the Swoosh, the crispness of the size label, and the weight — the same checks that apply to an Air Force 1.
The white leather panels crease and the midsole yellows with age; both are normal on a worn pair and both are photographed rather than hidden. How we grade every pair explains where those signs place a shoe.